July 10th

Did I mention their were three weddings in my training village? It was a lot similar to my cousing Todd and Judy's wedding in that the minister was Presbyterian. (Not quite sure if that's true for Todd and Judy). All three couples were married in one service. However, it was slightly different in that the village doubled in size over the week and all the guests came by boat with yams or woven pandanas mats.

The biggest procession is actually the payment of the Bride Price. The sons families sing and march throughout town with yams tied with calico (bright cloth) to a long pole carried between two burly guys' shoulders. The carry the pig in such a fashion as well, but the poor mat bearers only receive a heaping pile on their heads, neck and shoulders.

Much pig slaughtering and all night dancing of the villagers ensued. I danced some, but was otherwise preoccupied with training aside from gorging on pig and buluk and laplap (root and coconut custard) at meal times. Unfortunately, I was in bed by 11:30 at the latest.

Didn't sleep much though, due to several strange dreams. I thought it was the mefloquine. What else could it be when you dream that you're a pregnant man and how the hell could you deliver a child? On a separate occasion I dreamt that I was to undergo a hazing ritual with my counterpart in my village site- he wanted me to let the poisonous centipedes crawl all over me. I reasoned that La Maz breathing ought to calm me as the millions of legs wriggled up my feet and legs. I rationalized that I was a bit nervous about my site placement and was a little stressed out.

Believe it or not, you need a vacation in the Peace Corps. We went to the island north of Efate called Gnuna. It was training related, a volunteer hosted us to partake in his work with a Marine Protected Area. Seeings how this is my dream job, I was thrilled and went straight onto the reef in spite of treacherous waves that threatened to drop me onto spiny coral fingers with each choppy drop.

The coral was brilliant in wavy leaves, spiny horns, massive boulders and fountains of branches in all the rainbows of colors. However, I returned at night to assist with the turtle tagging. I saw my first cuddle fish and nabbed a turtle!

The water was dark and cold, but the crinoid sea-lily's were out feeding on the bioluminescent algae. It started to rain as we kicked on the choppy surface, dodging arms or coral and flashing our underwater lights on the sand caves below. A big green turle was spotted by others in my group. While they hesitated diving down to it, I dove underneath and slowly lifted the big turtle from his resting spot. The turtle rocketed from his slumber to the surface with me riding him like rocket ship. The other snorkelers back kicked for their lives until the turtle got loose and swam directly towards their lights. Not wanting to pursue the turtle to the deep channel that might carry me off into the pacific ocean, I decided to drop the chase. That big mama got away but we tagged one other and measured another. HEAVEN!

Sorry that story was brief but I've been invited to join the truck back to the training village. Since they feed me there, I better go. It'd be a long walk

One last exciting piece of news. I'm going on wokaboat to my training site this week. I overlook an awesome bay and a volcano that gives amazing fireworks shows at night.

Take care and keep the e-mails to the PC address coming.

Love,

Mike